New South Wales
Please Select a Region:
- Cowra
- Gundagai
- Hastings River
- Hilltops
- Hunter Valley
- Mudgee
- Orange
- Perricoota
- Riverina
- Shoalhaven Coast
- Southern Highlands
- Tumbarumba
Cowra
Cowra is located in Central New South Wales, 310 kilometres driving due west of Sydney. The landscape varies from river flats to slopes, rolling hills and some rugged wilderness areas. Rainfall is generally reliable through the year and the 100 year average is approximately 640 mm per annum with January, May, August and October being the wettest months. The area was originally inhabited by the Wiradjuri people. The first white explorers entered the Lachlan Valley in 1815 (George Evans). A Military Depot was established not long after at Soldiers Flat near present day Billimari. Settlers appeared to have moved into the Lachlan Valley after 1835 and the township of Cowra had its beginnings in 1840 and was proclaimed and the first local government was proclaimed in 1888. The town and district have grown and prospered and significant events such as the construction of Wyangala Dam in the late 1920's and early 1930's, the Military Training Camp and the POW Camp, the migrant camp, the second Wyangala Dam all contributed to Cowra economy where others towns may have struggled. Cowra has at least 50 different cultures within the community, which is a fine record and proof of the value of regional integration of new cultures into the Australian way of life. Cowra celebrates this cultural diversity with the Annual Festival of International Understanding. Despite sporadic growth since the Cowra Estate planted its first vines in 1973, there has been enormous growth in the importance of this region. It is primarily a white wine region that specialises in full flavoured, moderately priced Chardonnays. The climate is hot and dry with the mean January temperature of 23.5ºC. Growing season rainfall is relatively high but relative humidity is low, reflecting the continental nature of the climate. The vineyards are situated on gentle slopes within two valleys cut into the western side of the Great Dividing Range by the headwaters of the Lachlan and Belabula rivers, which converge at Gooloogong. The Lachlan thence flows into the Murrumbidgee River north of Balranald. The soils are those most commonly found throughout south-east Australia; brownish loamy sand to clay loam on the surface, with red clay subsoils. They are moderately acidic and consequently moderately fertile. Cowra is famous for its full-flavoured early-maturing Chardonnays and has now emerged as a fully fledged wine region with an increasing number of wineries and cellar-door operations proving to be tourist draw cards, that are creating demand for improved tourist infrastructure, including accommodation, within the region.
Wine Varieties
Chardonnay
By far the most important wine of the region, Chardonnay is invariably generously flavoured and, in most instances, relatively quick maturing. In younger wines, yellow peach and ripe fig flavours tend to dominate and a degree of American oak influence is frequently encountered. However, some older wines of this variety have demonstrated a capacity to develop into ultra-rich, golden, honey and buttered toast styles.
Other White Wines
Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho are the most commonly encountered white wines with both variety and region specified on the label. Verdelho seems well suited to the region. Riesling and Gewurztraminer, too, are gaining in both plantings (here under “Other”) and reputation in the region.
Red Wines
From time to time, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc have all been made with the first two proving to be more suited to the region. The wines are pleasantly soft and easily accessible.
Gundagai
Gundagai is a newly developed wine region and part of what traditionally and meteorologically has been called the south-west slopes of New South Wales. It is here that the landscape and its mountain streams run down from the western heights of the Snowy Mountains towards the baking plains of the Riverina. Stretching from Tumut in the south-east to Temora in the north-west and Junee in the west, it is an undulating region varying between 200 and 300 metres in altitude, which is warm to hot in temperature with an even year-round rainfall though greater in the east but quite dry comparatively in humidity. It is only in the south-east corner around Adelong and Tumut—nearest the Australian Alps—that, to some extent, climatic conditions become cooler. The chief soil types of the region are similar to those in other regions in south-east Australia; red earth and red podsols, though soils along the major rivers and creeks are more variable. Though not unknown in western parts of the region -- the McWilliam family established the successful Markview vineyard at Junee in 1877 -- the wine grapevine had a long absence from the 1920’s to the mid 1990’s. However, since 1995 there has been a flurry of plantings and by the year 2003, there were about 750 acres of vines under cultivation. There are no sub regions. To date Gundagai has numerous small and several large vineyards. The largest so far established are the 190-hectare vineyard at Wirrialla (P. and H. Power), a 180-hectare development at Tumblong (Southcorp), and 147 hectares at Koolanooka (Morath).
Wine Notes
Shiraz
These are well-coloured wines of medium to full body, showing berry and earth characters on nose and palate and distinctly reminiscent of the Hilltops region to the north-west. Though the vines are still young, the Shiraz reds from this region will certainly be worthy of note in the future.
Cabernet Sauvignon
These are well-coloured berry-flavoured reds of medium to full body. Again, there is a resemblance to the Cabernets of the Hilltops region.
Hastings River
Viticulture and winemaking in the Hastings River region dates back to 1837 when the first vineyard was planted by Henry Fancourt White, a colonial surveyor. In the 1860’s there were 33 vineyards in the area. The Australian wine industry declined in the early 1900’s and, along with many other wine regions, production ceased in the Hastings Valley during that period. After 60 years of non-productivity, in 1980 the Cassegrain family of French descent decided to expand into real estate and associated viticulture and winery interests. Improbable though it seemed at the time, they have significantly expanded the viticultural map of Australia. In the course of meeting the unique climatic challenges of the region, the family pioneered new varieties and new ways of managing vineyards, and have indirectly encouraged the development of other vineyards and wineries along the northern coast of New South Wales. There are no sub regions. The vineyards of the Hastings River are the only significant new plantings in Australia over the past 30 years not to have been supplemented with irrigation, simply because they have no need of it. As well as being uncompromisingly warm, this is a region that combines high summer humidity and high rainfall. It is much affected by the tail end of tropical cyclones moving down the coast from Queensland, and by its proximity to the warm waters of the Pacific Ocean. The best vintages are the driest; those in which the late summer rains are below average. However, even in these circumstances the successful outcome of the vintage is dependent on split-second timing of the harvest and very careful management of the canopy. The only assured solution has been the propagation of the French-bred hybrid Chambourcin, which is resistant to the mildews that otherwise pose a constant threat. The gently hilly terrain offers a wide choice of aspect that affords a response to, as well as the use of prevailing winds, which are helpful in assisting disease control. The soils vary greatly in fertility, depth and drainage capacity and range from rich free-draining alluvial and red volcanic soils, sandy podsolics to heavy, water-resistant yellow clay; some are deep, others overlie gravel or limestone.
Wine Notes
Chardonnay
Chardonnay dominates plantings in the Hastings River and does well. The style is not unlike a more expansive version of that of the Hunter; rich and generous in a peach and tropical fruit spectrum. It lends itself to manipulation in the winery and to the expansive use of oak. As might be expected, it matures relatively quickly but the wines from drier, better vintages can hold their peak for several years.
Semillon
The thin skins and large berries of Semillon make it especially vulnerable to the effects of vintage rain. As in the Hunter, the saving grace is the unusual ability of the Semillon to produce excellent wine at lower than usual sugar (and hence alcohol) levels of around 10 degrees Baumé. Thus early picking is the appropriate response for the wines show many of the characteristics of, and similar development to those of the Hunter. As with Chardonnay, weight and intensity can be diluted in high yielding years.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Vintages such as 1991 and, to a lesser extent, 1993 show what can be achieved with these varieties (and also Shiraz). The resulting wines are soft and quite fleshy wines with abundant berry and earth flavours. Merlot, too, can be successfully made as a single varietal though it is sometimes seen as a cross-regional blend.
Hilltops
The Hilltops region takes in the shires of Boorowa, Harden and Young, with the majority of the vineyards south-east of Young. All are situated above the 450-metre (1476-feet) contour line. Towards the end of the 19th century there appear to have been some wineries that were run by settlers from the Dalmatian coast of Croatia, which won medals at the Sydney Wine Show. However, the modern-day pioneer of the region was the late Peter Robertson who, together with members of his family, commenced the establishment of his Barwang vineyard in 1975. It was a substantial farming property, with grape growing and winemaking a minor diversification from the core grazing activities. When McWilliam's acquired the 400-hectare (988-acre) property in 1988, there were only 13 hectares (32 acres) planted to vines although even then it was by far the largest vineyard in the region. McWilliam's have since increased the plantings to over 100 hectares, while Grove Estate Vineyard has 55 hectares (136 acres) in full bearing. There are now over 400 bearing hectares (988 acres). Although careful site selection and matching of grape variety with altitude remain of prime importance, the quality of the wines produced by McWilliam's under the Barwang label leaves no doubt that this is not only an extremely good viticultural region but one with a great future. While the climate is unequivocally continental with substantial diurnal temperature variation during the growing season, the altitude at which most of the vineyards are established ensures an even and lengthy ripening period. Spring frosts necessitate careful site selection along ridge tops and the upper, well aired and drained slopes. While substantial rainfall occurs in the growing season, most rain is in spring. The dry summer and autumn provide excellent ripening conditions but make irrigation essential. The soils are rich and deep; typically dark red granite clays impregnated with basalt. While capable of holding water at depth, they are free draining and support strong vine growth. These soils persist along the ridge tops and hillsides, which provide the greatest degree of protection against frost.
Wine Notes
Chardonnay
For such a warm area, the Chardonnays are surprisingly lean and elegant, with citrus and melon flavours merging into stonier and more mineral characteristics. They lend themselves to subtle oak handling and give every impression they will age with grace for five years.
Semillon
Several memorable late harvest Semillons have been produced in the region, but these days the accent is on dry table styles. They are powerful and carry excellent mid-palate weight although not especially long on the palate; perhaps this will come with greater vine maturity. If it does, then wines of the highest quality will follow.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Like the Shiraz, the Cabernet Sauvignon is a powerful wine but yet neither aggressive nor heavy. The flavours are predominantly those of cassis, balanced by earthier chocolatey undertones. The tannins are quite strong and long-lived wines seem assured.
Shiraz
Arguably, Shiraz is the variety best suited to the region. The aromas and flavours are complex, moderately spicy and hold a range of chocolate, mint, black cherry and more briary characteristics. Acidity is good, and the tannins are supple.
Hunter Valley
This region encompasses both the lower and upper Hunter Valley areas which have traditionally been regarded as quite separate. They are, however, geographically linked by the umbilical cord of the Hunter River. The capital of the Hunter is Newcastle with many significant towns within the region, including Cessnock, Maitland, Singleton, Muswellbrook, Scone and Murrurundi. The Hunter Valley's fertile river flats and its close proximity to the first colony at Sydney Cove led to its development as an agricultural region in the early 1800s. James Busby the man credited with bringing the vine to Australia was associated with the Hunter Valley through his brother-in-law William Kelman. Kelman is thought to be the first to plant vines in the Hunter. George Wyndham planted grapes in 1832. Penfolds bought the property in 1904 naming it Wyndham Estate. Dr Henry Lindeman purchased land around Raymond Terrace in the 1830s. So too did James King whose legacy passed onto Maurice O'Shea who came to the forefront of Hunter Valley winemaking in the 1920s. The area fell into depression for many years, but gradually made a comeback in the early 1960s. Today the region is booming. The Hunter Valley is famous for its Semillon. Shiraz is the Hunter's premium red variety. Other varieties grown include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, which have all produced great Hunter wines.
Wine Notes
Semillon
Semillon is regarded as the great wine of the Hunter. It demands time in bottle, and rewards by developing from a vaguely grassy, lemony youth to a crescendo of honeyed, nutty, buttered toasty palate pleasing richness at 10 to 20 years of age.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay started its road to Australia-wide varietal supremacy, when Murray Tyrrell produced the 1971 Vat 47 Pinot Chardonnay. Today virtually every winery in the region produces a Chardonnay; some are richer or more complex, others are oakier but most have a ‘peaches and cream’ character. Opinions differ sharply about the keeping qualities of these wines. If varietal character is unimportant, then the deep golden, buttery, viscous opulence of aged Hunter Chardonnay will be extremely satisfying.
Shiraz
The Hunter Valley imprints its regional stamp on both Shiraz and Cabernet wines but it can be argued that the inherent varietal character of Shiraz acquiesces to that stamp with greater compliance than does Cabernet Sauvignon. Moreover, Shiraz makes the same transformation in bottle as Semillon, moving from an astringent, angular and spiky youth into a savoury, velvety maturity at 20 or even 30 years of age.
Cabernet Sauvignon
After a hiatus of more than 30 years, Cabernet Sauvignon was reintroduced to the Hunter Valley by Dr Max Lake at Lake's Folly in 1963. Since that time it has been planted at almost every vineyard in the Valley. It produces an idiosyncratic style and some fine wines are made here from this grape.
Mudgee
Standing on the small hill behind the Montrose Winery it can readily be understood why the Aboriginals who lived in this part of Australia gave it the name Mudgee, meaning Nest in the Hills. With a viticultural history that stretches back to 1858, Mudgee has played a role in Australian viticultural history. Although primarily a producer of robust and deeply coloured red wines, Mudgee was the cradle in which a particularly good clone of Chardonnay lay unrecognised for over 50 years, a clone which some believe may have been a descendant of the Chardonnay introduced to Australia in 1832 by James Busby. The beautifully soft and intimate nature of much of the countryside around Mudgee is fashioned by the outer rim of hills which create the nest that the Aboriginals perceived so clearly, and from the smaller hills within that perimeter that give rise to a panorama of mini vistas with ever more valleys nesting in their midst. Overall, however, though the slopes are gentle all this beauty does have its limitations and these manifest in the Mudgee region as frost-prone pockets and hollows. Situated as it is on the western slopes of the Great Dividing Range, Mudgee has a very different climate to that of its neighbour on the other (coastal) side, the Hunter. Spring frosts and cold nights delay budburst; rainfall and humidity are lower; sunshine hours are greater; and irrigation is essential on all but the most favoured sites. This is by no means a cool region. The summer and autumn days are very warm, and harvest is four weeks behind the Hunter. The brownish coloured soils are typical of those found through the majority of the wine regions of eastern Australia; slightly acidic or sandy loam over neutral clay subsoils but both topsoil and subsoil have the advantage of being quite well drained. Yields have been restricted more by inadequate water for irrigation than by any deficiency in the soils or its structure.
Wine Notes
Chardonnay
This is the predominant white from the region and consistently produces good wine. The flavours are usually in the peach, melon, fig spectrum but often citrus, grapefruit characteristics emerge, particularly where the maker employs barrel-ferment techniques. The wines show their best varietal character in the second and third years but do go on to develop into rich and honeyed regional styles over a much longer time frame.
Semillon
It is unfortunate that this Semillon lives in the shadow of the Hunter. The styles are similar, as is the capacity to age gloriously in bottle for up to 20 years. Riesling can develop equally well if made in a cool, dry year.
Cabernet Sauvignon
This variety makes Mudgee's best wines, usually as a 100 percent varietal, but sometimes blended with Merlot or Shiraz. The wines have tremendous depth of colour and hold their purple-red hues for longer than those of the Hunter, turning brick red at seven to ten years of age. The generous flavours reflect the warm climate; a melange of tastes of red berry, dark chocolate and, sometimes, eucalypt and peppermint. The tannins are almost invariably pronounced but are not excessively astringent, for they are balanced by the generosity of the fruit.
Shiraz
The wines can be somewhat schizophrenic; some are determined to ‘out-Hunter’ the Hunter with strong earthy, tarry, leather characters. Other wines are much cleaner and closer to Cabernet Sauvignon, with lush red berry fruits and hints of chocolate. It is frequently blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, sometimes with Cabernet and Malbec, almost always to very good effect.
Fortified Wines
A miscellany of styles are made, all with both local and tourist appeal.
Orange
Initially known as the Central Highlands, the Orange region, centred on the slopes of Mount Canobolas, has long been an important orchard area producing apples, pears and cherries. An experimental viticultural station was established at nearby Molong in the 1940’s, but vines were first planted commercially in 1980. Due to restricted opportunities for irrigation, major vineyard development has slowed since 2000 and much effort is now being put into raising the profile of the region on the national and international stage. The region is home to many small premium operators. The climate is strongly influenced by and largely dependent on elevation. Overall, mild to warm midsummer mean temperatures, seldom rising above 32°C (90°F), are offset by cool to very cool nights during the growing season. The rainfall predominates in winter and spring while the three driest months are February, March and April, making supplementary irrigation highly desirable. Wind is both friend and foe. On the one hand it helps to reduce the major climatic threat of spring frosts, thus making a north-easterly site exposure desirable but on the other hand, interferes with fruit set on sensitive varieties such as Merlot. Other than spring frosts and climatic aberrations such as light snow in December, the major threat is from birds, relishing the extension of their diet. The undulating countryside is not only very attractive but is of fundamental importance in determining site selection. The soils vary widely, reflecting the different geological strata of the parent rock but falling into four main groups. The first are the well drained, friable, deep red brown clays derived from basalt that are found near Mount Canobolas. Second are the deep red-brown, yellow-brown clay loams of mixed origin including volcanic ash. Both these two soil groups promote considerable vigour. The third is a red/brown podzolic clay loam of medium vigour overlying a medium clay and shale base interspersed with gravel, which assists with drainage. Finally, there are patches of terra rossa associated with visible limestone at the lower elevations.
Wine Notes
Chardonnay
As in so many newly developed regions, Chardonnay is by far the most important wine. The style is a neat balance between the fleshy, rich, quick developing warm climate wine and the ultra fine, slow developing, citrus and cashew style of very cool climates. Melon, fig and nectarine flavours are set in a wine of medium weight and pleasantly firm acidity, responding well to, but not relying on the subtle use of oak and malolactic fermentation. Carefully made regional styles respond well to medium term cellaring of four to five years.
Riesling
Limited quantities of ultra-late picked Riesling are made from time to time. One was made from a picking on July 5, long after winter frosts and snow had arrived, and fully deserving the ‘Ice Wine’ epithet.
Sauvignon Blanc
Intense tropical fruit flavours develop when grown at high elevation above 750 m (2460.63 feet). The more vigourous soils also produce fruit with an herbaceous character that complements the strong fruit flavours.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Usually blended, but sometimes produced as single varietal wines, these leave no doubt that the Orange region has a temperate climate. The flavours run through the herbaceous and earthy spectrum with dark berry sweetness. They are of medium weight and body and have fine tannins. When considered by themselves they recall in their structure the better Australian cool-area wines. They can also be very effectively blended with wines from warmer regions such as Mudgee, the Hunter Valley and Cowra.
Shiraz
This is a recently planted variety showing true varietal flavours and exceptional colour. As in many other regions of Australia, the Shiraz is the most widely planted variety.
Perricoota
Centred upon Moama on the Murray River in southern New South Wales, this region takes its name from a grazing property established in 1840. Soon afterwards and for the next half-century, the Murray River became an artery of commerce along which flowed the economic life-blood of three colonies, Victoria, New South Wales and South Australia. Viticulture in this general area dates back to the middle of the 19th century, when Henry Hopwood established a vineyard near Echuca on the Victorian side of the river in 1858. At this time Echuca was Australia's largest inland port and Hopwood's vineyard became the focus of a thriving wine business. However, recurrent droughts and lack of irrigation brought an end to this enterprise later in the century. Echuca's modern wine industry began in 1972 when Dr Peter Tisdall planted at Picola, to the east of Echuca. Since then the general area has been very much aware of the vine and the potential offered by the industry. Perricoota has a typical Australian riverine landscape of flat terrain and remnants of river red gum forests. Its soils, of moderate acidity tending to alkalinity at depth, are generally red clay loams of good texture with fair to good moisture holding capacity. The region is undoubtedly warm, but it is cooler than Swan Hill or Murray Darling to its north-west and has a greater annual and growing season rainfall. Nonetheless, irrigation is essential. Its principal grape varieties are Chardonnay in white and Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon in reds.
Wine Notes
Chardonnay
The vines are still young but with time should produce forward, peachy Chardonnay styles of good flavour that are suitable for fairly immediate consumption.
Semillon
Wines of typical lemony character showing good acidity, perhaps Semillon is even more suited to the region than Chardonnay, but time will tell.
Shiraz
These are wines of good Shiraz colour showing supple medium weight palates of berry flavour even with a little licorice complexity.
Riverina
This region is known variously as the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area, Griffith and the Riverina. The history of its viticulture can be traced from 1912 and the arrival of John James McWilliam. McWilliam arrived in the Riverina to participate in the then recently born Murrumbidgee Irrigation Scheme. Growing 55 percent of varietal grapes in New South Wales and 15 percent of the total grape production within Australia, the Riverina is a very important region. As a producer of specialist wine grapes, its wine style of international importance is Botrytised Semillon. The climate is hot and dry with winter dominant rainfall, although slightly cooler than the South Australian Riverland and Victorian Murray Darling regions. With around 400 mm (16 inches) of rainfall each year, all forms of perennial agriculture depend on irrigation from the Murrumbidgee River. Grape growing is reliable, and yields are moderate to high with a minimal disease load. With a low requirement for sprays, growers have adopted minimal impact vineyard management systems resulting in consistent high quality wines over the years. The topography of the region is generally flat although some major developments are occurring on the sloping rangelands. Irrigation is typically applied via gravity fed systems of furrows and flood but controlled flow systems are being established in all new developments due to environmental pressures. Deriving in part from ancient streambeds, the sandy loam soils are variable in colour and structure, ranging from red sandy earths to brown clay loams.
Wine Notes
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is the Riverina's third most important grape variety. With the judicious use of oak, this Chardonnay produces a wine of pleasant varietal flavour, weight and style.
Semillon
Picked at normal maturity, Semillon provides a pleasant wine (which may be blended with other varieties) and is used in the making of generic styles. These days, in the almost certain expectation that they will be attacked by Botrytis cinerea, and if the weather conditions are favourable (they usually are), specially selected blocks of Semillon grapes are left on the vine for up to two months after maturity. As a consequence, Botrytis cinerea, the noblest of rots, attacks the grapes, evaporating the water content of their juice and concentrating both its sugar and acid. The resultant wine is a luscious Sauternes-style dessert wine, which is the district's outstanding speciality.
Shiraz
Much good Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon is produced in the region. With the growing importance of exports, considerable research is being done on irrigation, nutrition and canopy management to improve fruit quality. As in Sunraysia, the quality of wine from this region improved significantly over the last decade of the 20th century.
Shoalhaven Coast
Wineries extend along the south coast of New South Wales from Kiama in the north to Beagle Bay at its southern end. Most have been established since the early 1970s. The principal threat to viticulture resides in the unpredictable but sometimes-substantial summer rainfall, a problem that diminishes to the south of the region. It is a situation with which Hunter and north coast wineries are thoroughly familiar and, fortunately, it is far from insuperable. Nonetheless, it seems almost certain that vineyard holdings and winery size will remain small, and that the major vineyard developments of the future will continue to take place on the eastern edge of the Great Divide. Growing season temperatures are quite warm, though extremely high summer temperatures are uncommon due to the strong maritime influence of the Pacific Ocean. The sultry climate with its high humidity also diminishes stress on the vines and aids growth but, together with heavy summer rainfall, significantly increases the risk of mildew, both downy and powdery, and of Botrytis. Sunshine hours are not particularly generous in the north of the region but they improve as one moves south and frost should seldom if ever pose a problem. Nonetheless, selection of well-exposed, well-drained and ventilated north-facing slopes is important if the best results are to be obtained. The soil varies in depth and consistency from the alluvial valleys to the hillsides, but most are red and brown earths which are well suited to viticulture and which promote good yields.
Wine Notes
Chardonnay
The ubiquitous and ever-flexible Chardonnay is planted up and down the length of the Shoalhaven Coast zone. It produces a pleasant, mid-weight wine with gentle peachy fruit flavours and a soft finish.
Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon
These are paired together because they are, in fact, so often blended, and also because either as single varietal wines or as blends they produce soft, faintly earthy wines without having an especially distinctive varietal character. With appropriate winery techniques, these are fresh, well-balanced, light-to medium-bodied wines best consumed while young. But here, too, the district can surprise.
Southern Highlands
The Southern Highlands form part of the Great Dividing Range, sitting between 500 and 900 metres (1,640 feet and 2,952 feet) altitude and centred on the towns of Mittagong, Bowral and Moss Vale to the south-west of Sydney. Like the Blue Mountains to its north, this area has long been a favoured destination of tourists seeking respite from the muggy heat of coastal Sydney. The 19th century history of the region mirrors that of many other parts of Australia; a search for suitable grazing land, then a period of mineral exploitation (in this instance, iron) and associated industrial development, the arrival of the railway and then tourism. Due to the presence of rich volcanic soil and a bounteous rainfall, grazing and horticultural and vegetable crops have always been popular with landholders in the district. Robertson is renowned for its potatoes. Other areas are equally famous for pome fruits and these days, in addition to grapes, olive groves are becoming more widespread. Though there are records pointing to table grape vineyards and a modest wine production of 4300 litres (1135 gallons) in the Berrima district in 1886, there was little viticulture during the early 20th century, and the current wine history of the region dates only from the 1980s, when the Joadja Vineyards and Winery were established. Generally the region is cool, moist and slightly humid, and can be characterised as having a moderately continental climate with mild summers and cool winters. Its rainfall is evenly distributed throughout the year, varying from heavy (1664 mm or 65 inches) in the east of the region (Robertson on the Illawarra escarpment) to moderate at Joadja with 832 mm (32 inches) north-west of Berrima. Its principal viticultural soils are red and brown krasnozems and red earth derived from basalt, red and brown podsols, and earth from shales. Both soils incline to acidity, which may be corrected by the addition of lime. Krasnozem soils promote vigorous growth but are free-draining; the red podsols, common throughout south-east Australia, are less fertile and do not drain as well. There are also some sandstone-derived yellow earths. The vineyards are situated between 500 and 700 metres (1640 to 2296 feet) altitude. Viticultural hazards in the region include hail, frosts during April, attack by rabbits, hares, ducks and wallabies on young vines and by birds on un-netted vines at harvest time. Fungal diseases including downy and powdery mildews are also present and require sulphur or copper-based sprays for control. Botrytis could also present problems in very warm vintages.
Wine Notes
Chardonnay
Yet another of Australia’s cooler Chardonnay areas, the region makes both unwooded and wooded styles in melon-lime-citrus mode, sometimes even with a touch of green apple. Oak handling is light and skilful; acidity is generally good, auguring well for quality maturation.
Riesling
Riesling is showing promise in this region, with floral citrus complexities in young wines and touches of honey and toast in older wines.
Sauvignon Blanc
These wines are very much in the general run of good cool-area Australian Sauvignon; light smoky, grassy traits on nose and palate with good acidity.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Blends
The Southern Highlands are very likely to be an area in which Cabernet Sauvignon and its related varieties will perform better in warmer years. At the present time it is producing medium bodied wines showing light berry and briar characteristics, mostly off young vines.
Tumbarumba
Tumbarumba is unequivocally in the Snowy Mountains, a part of the Australian Alps which feature Mount Kosciusko, Australia’s highest peak with vineyards at altitudes ranging from 300 to 800 metres (984 to 2624 feet), the region. The first vines were established at Tumbarumba in 1982 by Ian Cowell and a year later by Frank Minutello at Tooma in the Maragle Valley, 18 kilometres (11 miles) south-east of Tumbarumba. The majority of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in the region continue to be used for sparkling wine with these two varieties accounting for 75 percent of the total plantings and a testament to the cool climate. The pace of development was slow between 1983 and 1992, and at the end of the decade eight vineyards had been established with a total area of 78 hectares (193 acres). Today there are more than 25 vineyards covering a total of almost 300 hectares (741 acres). The ability of the region to produce table wine (as opposed to sparkling wine) is dependent on two things; seasonal conditions and site altitude. The margin for error is low and the need for first class viticultural management, high. But when all goes well, the region can produce excellent table wine, even though its main business will be firmly linked to the production of high-quality sparkling wine. Tumbarumba's climate is cool but no more so on this measure than that of the Yarra Valley, and it is warmer, for example, than that of Macedon Ranges in central Victoria or Henty in south-western Victoria. Moreover, there are also a number of other, mutually counterbalancing factors; high sunshine hours with brilliant light, cold summer nights and a late start to the growing season. Frost is an ever-present viticultural threat and its presence dictates the necessity for careful site selection and management. Nighttime temperature inversion, the propensity of cold air to sink and warm air to rise, can be tricky, but elevation is a counterbalancing and significant factor in determining varietal choice. The early autumn seasonal break can also pose problems. These are typical high mountain soils, derived from decomposed granite and basalt, with a typically gritty and granular texture. The choice of viticultural site is chiefly determined by aspect (north and northeast-facing preferred, south-facing nigh on impossible) and slope (sufficiently steep to promote good air drainage at night and thus minimise the risk of frost).
Wine Notes
Chardonnay
The sporadic releases of Chardonnay to date have been distinguished by crisp melon, citrus and fig fruit in the classic style of a cool climate wine.
Sparkling
The essence of Champagne lies in the blending of 50 or more different base wine components which are drawn from areas scattered across the length and breadth of that classic French region. The best of Australian sparkling wines use the same approach, employing a classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier but also utilising a multiplicity of other regional sources.
Pinot Noir
In 1994 Seppelt produced a Pinot Noir made from a blend of Tumbarumba and Drumborg grapes that deservedly won the Pinot Noir Trophy at the National Wine Show. There is no doubt the region has the capacity to produce very stylish Pinot Noir with a clear varietal character. Much more should be heard of Tumbarumba Pinot Noir in the future.